2020年的義大利版Vogue,屢屢跌破眾人的眼鏡,在最重要的封面設計上,頻頻挑戰了時尚雜誌的定律。

在2016年,義大利版Vogue靈魂人物-Franca Sozzani總編輯因病去世後,引起時尚界一片譁然,紛紛揣測著將由何人來接下這重責大任,又是否能延續義大利版在26個國別版本中的前衛卓然地位。最終接手總編輯的人選,果真出乎眾人的意料之外,由推出義大利版GQ的幕後成員之一-Emanuele Farneti接下這項巨大的任務。

Franca Sozzani
Emanuele Farneti

有人說,在Emanuele Farneti上任後,義大利版Vogue變薄了!連Emanuele Farneti都曾驕傲的表示,近期的雜誌中廣告頁面變多了,也許有人會開始質疑起Emanuele Farneti抹滅了Franca Sozzani為義大利版Vogue所建立起的藝術性、社會性精神指標,轉而使其趨向過度商業化,但我們卻難以否認,從2020年首月號,到各國受到新冠病毒疫情風波影響甚鉅的4月號,在Emanuele Farneti經手下的封面呈現,都再再展現其始終沒有違背Franca Sozzani心中對於:「時尚,能作的還有更多」的理想。

|一本沒有時尚照片的時尚雜誌,可行嗎?

去年12月,Emanuele Farneti開始思索,要產出一本光鮮亮麗的時尚雜誌,究竟需要動用多少人力、物力,以及消耗多少天然資源?

Emanuele Farneti回想起2018年為了完成9月份號刊物,期間至少動用了人力150人、超過20趟的飛行和數十趟的火車差旅、40輛汽車在現場隨時待命、60次國際快遞,而辦公室於每日上班期間期間所產生的廢棄物等,都在為地球製造無窮無盡且無形的環境成本,他突然意識到「時尚」雖具有美麗浮艷的表象,背後卻是造成地球危機的主要推手之一。

有此領悟後,Emanuele Farneti說服了其他25位國際版編輯與他共同宣示,2020年1月份出版的義大利版《Vogue》雜誌,從封面到內頁都將不會使用任何「照片」,在眾人還在為此宣示感到不解的同時,2020年1月7日,Emanuele Farneti便兌現了他的諾言。

2020年一月號的義大利版《Vogue》雜誌,邀請了義大利多媒體藝術家Vanessa Beecroft、美國畫家Cassi Namoda以及日本插畫家天野喜孝等八名藝術家,為該期雜誌的封面與內頁進行插畫創作,一共推出了8個不同版本的雜誌封面,並在一旁標註上「本期雜誌不含任何攝影作品」字樣(No photoshoot production was required in the making of this issue)。雜誌一出,立即造成時尚界與雜誌業的轟動,「原來一本沒有時尚照片的時尚雜誌,是可行的!」

問及針對此新穎的作法,是否有過內心的隱憂,Emanuele Farneti自信地表示:「想要展示衣服,不一定只能透過照片」。此外,Emanuele Farneti更進一步將從拍攝、差旅、人力等製作環節中省下來的經費,全數捐給2018年受洪水重創的威尼斯文化中心暨圖書館——Fondazione Querini Stampalia。

|將封面予以留白,展現至上的敬意、包容與對未來的期許

2020年,從年初就是個不平靜的一年,新型冠狀病毒於各國肆虐,人們在這樣的氛圍下,依然努力想要維持正常的生活。而消費力的大幅度下降,讓眩目浮華的時尚產業在這樣艱困的氛圍中,顯得格格不入,甚至不合時宜。但身為指標性的時尚雜誌龍頭,亦不能由於疫情而暫停發刊,但針對現下最嚴峻的全球議題,該如何表達一體同心的立場,Emanuele Farneti再次給出了最為靜默,卻也是最好的答案。

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The Vogue Italia April Issue will be out next Friday 10th. 🤍🤍🤍 “In its long history stretching back over a hundred years, Vogue has come through wars, crises, acts of terrorism. Its noblest tradition is never to look the other way. Just under two weeks ago, we were about to print an issue that we had been planning for some time, and which also involved L’Uomo Vogue in a twin project. But to speak of anything else – while people are dying, doctors and nurses are risking their lives and the world is changing forever – is not the DNA of Vogue Italia. Accordingly, we shelved our project and started from scratch. The decision to print a completely white cover for the first time in our history is not because there was any lack of images – quite the opposite. We chose it because white signifies many things at the same time. 🤍🤍🤍 White is first of all respect. White is rebirth, the light after darkness, the sum of all colours. White is the colour of the uniforms worn by those who put their own lives on the line to save ours. It represents space and time to think, as well as to stay silent. White is for those who are filling this empty time and space with ideas, thoughts, stories, lines of verse, music and care for others. White recalls when, after the crisis of 1929, this immaculate colour was adopted for clothes as an expression of purity in the present, and of hope in the future. Above all: white is not surrender, but a blank sheet waiting to be written, the title page of a new story that is about to begin.” #EmanueleFarneti @EFarneti #imagine #FarAwaySoClose #WhiteCanvas — Read the full Editor’s letter via link in bio. Full credits: Editor in chief @Efarneti Creative director @FerdinandoVerderi

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一面全白的雜誌封面,而屹立不搖的Vogue字樣,彷彿不容許你質疑,「她」是貨真價實的時尚雜誌。

義大利版《Vogue》在官方網站中寫道:「這是一個世界通用的意象,代表著純潔、力量、尊重及希望。然而在靜默的背後,Vogue Italia 也得以將一個非常具有生命力及私人的議題給實現。」而 Emanuele Farneti 亦發出聲明:「外頭有人們正在與死神搏鬥、醫生和護士們冒著生命危險工作著、整個世界都與先前大不相同了—— 這不符合 Vogue Italia 的核心價值。因此我們擱置了我們的計劃、從頭開始,並將目光聚焦在三件事情上。」

Emanuele Farneti所提及的三件事情,包含利用藝術來重新思考與疫情共存的生活、未來世界的樣貌,以及避免陷溺於自怨自艾。他堅信:「不只現在、未來也會有很多工作要做,沒有多餘時間來浪費或沉浸在過去。」為了實現心中的三個主要目標, Emanuele Farneti邀請了在家防疫的藝術家們,於居家防疫期間,以個人情感為出發點,描繪出心中對於「時尚」的想像與看法,無需有包裝之意,而是期待呈現出真摯且能引發共感的圖像,並傳達人人雖各處一方,卻團結一致的力量。

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“In times like this, we felt that a silent cover would speak louder than any word or image. It’s a universal message of purity, strength, respect, and hope. Yet behind the silence of this cover, a very lively and personal issue of Vogue Italia comes to life. More than 40 artists and friends welcomed the challenge to contribute from their own quarantines. We personally asked each artist to “stay true to the constraints that we are all sharing in these difficult times, creating simple, honest images”, and to depict the fashion “in a way that most reflects their personal moment, with nothing else in mind.” It’s fair to say that the resulting images depict the widest range of emotions, that seen together create a long distance community effort that becomes an important visual document of the times we are living. Ultimately, it’s an expression of what Emanuele and I believe Vogue Italia should aim to: talking about the world through fashion.” @FerdinandoVerderi. #FarAwaySoClose #imagine #WhiteCanvas — Editor in chief @EFarneti Creative director @FerdinandoVerderi Artwork @FerdinandoVerderi for Vogue Italia

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「白色(White)代表著那些用靈感、思想、故事、詩句、音樂和各式關心來填補這個空虛時刻的人們;在1929年金融危機後白色這個顏色也曾被用作服裝表現,象徵當時對純潔和未來希望的期許。白色代表著各地每位一同致力於本期雜誌的人們,以及他們無數個輾轉難眠的夜晚。我衷心感謝每一個人。最重要的是:白色不代表投降,而是一張等著被續寫的白紙,是一個即將展開新故事的序章。」

Emanuele Farneti

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Far Away So Close. For our April issue we mustered our community. Over 40 artists, scattered around the world and in full lockdown, have made themselves available in their own homes to create a snapshot of the new world – everyone far away, nobody alone. @DavidSimsofficial: “It subtly describes part of the situation I/we are all in. The lack of facility to move and work in the normal way. The internet is the landscape we can explore. Roving around it looking for a residue of what we once had.” Discover the full Far Away So Close portfolio in our April Issue on newsstands next Friday 10th. #FarAwaySoClose #imagine #WhiteCanvas — Editor in chief @EFarneti Creative director @FerdinandoVerderi

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Photo via Vogue

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